Napoli
e dintorni.

A city you visit on foot, from Napoli Centrale outward — and the easy way to get there from Sant'Agata is the train from Caserta or Maddaloni-Marcianise. Fifteen minutes regional, ten minutes high-speed; the historic centre's spine, Spaccanapoli, starts more or less at the station and runs straight to the sea.

Plan for crowds, motorbikes, and stroller-hostile cobbles — the carrier is the right choice for an old-town day. Avoid driving in: the city's traffic is its own weather system.

Forty metres below Spaccanapoli, the city's other city: a network of Greek-cut tuff quarries that became Roman aqueducts, became WWII bomb shelters, became now-tours. The standard guided visit (Piazza San Gaetano entrance) takes you through the aqueduct passages with handheld candles in a few claustrophobic stretches — small kids may or may not enjoy this, but it photographs as you'd hope.

Reservations recommended in summer. Wear shoes you don't mind on damp stone.

You can argue forever about which is best, and Italians do. The reliable three: L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele on Via Cesare Sersale (two-pizza menu, line at noon), Sorbillo on Via dei Tribunali (faster line, broader menu), and di Matteo on the same street (where Bill Clinton famously stopped). The Margherita at any of them is what "pizza in Naples" means.

Most don't take reservations for lunch. Arrive at 11:30 to eat by noon, or at 12:30 to wait an hour. The Margherita is €5-6.